Budapest: Love Affair by Candlelight Supper

Zsíroskenyér hagymával — a Hungarian traditional ‘meal’ by candle-light on the rakpart. This is how we said farewell to the community space for the winter by Meli.

Arriving at the darkest season of the year here on the good old European side of our planet — candlelight, the apartment-safe form of the great bonfire our caveman brain still so craves in winter — becomes our comfort.

A symbol of warmth, life, safety, and togetherness, we attach countless meanings to these waxy wonders: from Hanukkah to romance, from Christmas to the quiet counting of the years we’ve made it through so far — all nestled into rich buttercream and memory alike. :)

I want to share what was, for me, the most memorable candlelight moment of the year so far — a little throwback to the summer, and the perfect lead-in to this cozy, cold season. It also gives us a small window into where Budapest is heading and what it feels like to live in the capital of Hungary. A little story about light and resilience.

Candlelight supper right by the Danube

Budapest has a very special place in my heart — it’s the longest love affair I’ve ever had. Everything about it captivates me: the contrast between its breathtaking architecture and the everyday hardships of a city still searching for its identity since the fall of the Berlin Wall; the incredibly warm friendships born within the expat community; the charming yellow trams that always make me smile; and the endless riverbanks that have followed me through my teenage years, each cobblestone carrying a burst of memories. (Fortunately, cobblestones can’t talk…)

Summer vibes and unbroken spirit

This summer, one of my favourite places, the Pesti Rakpart (the riverbank stretching alongside the Danube on the Pest side of the city), became the beating heart and centre of fun in the city. It opened up for pedestrians and turned into a relaxed community hub for everyone to enjoy. Instead of manoeuvring between cars just to get a little closer to the water and the beautiful views, we suddenly had the whole stretch to ourselves! With dedicated BBQ spots, chairs, mini playgrounds, long stretches to walk, rollerskate, and do other sports, a stage, and many more quirks — like stunning sunsets with the Buda Castle as our casual backdrop — we had an amazing time there. My friends and I played music there almost every week and it was mindblowing to perform at one of the most beautiful scennes in Europe just for fun, while enjoying the summer breeze.

This brilliant transformation came from independent Mayor Gergely Karácsony and his team — one of the many community-focused, eco-minded ideas that have been slowly turning Budapest into a more liveable and breathable city. Amid the disappointing situation where Hungarian political parties are busiest tearing each other down ahead of next year’s election, wasting energy and undermining the city’s independent leadership, this project — miraculously — still came alive. Looking at the constant fight for power and the surprisingly nasty propaganda tactics, Budapest’s unbroken spirit and gentle move towards a more modern and green city is not only refreshing but brings some much-needed hope. Thus, with an unbroken spirit, those who love Budapest’s city life celebrated an unforgettable season by the cool breeze of the Danube, nestled between the Castle and the Parliament.

Candlelit supper

For now it was a summer thing, and the Rakpart was reopened to cars for the winter season — plans are already submitted to make the Rakpart into an all-year-round, green community space, but for now we had to say goodbye for the winter. On November 26th, we enjoyed a humble but absolutely adorable farewell party. It was a kind of candlelit supper that Hyacinth Bucket¹ might not have approved of — I do not think she would approve of zsíroskenyér and hummus in particular — but I loved every minute of it.

On the occasion, a friendly community gathered around long tables, enjoying candlelight, flowers, and that quaint atmosphere the Dutch so perfectly call gezellig. There were colouring books for the kids, free sandwiches and hot dogs by Billog, and, of course, uplifting music by the Óbudai Fúvószenekar.

The mayor himself came down, mingling with everyone — a genuine, down-to-earth man who truly seems to live for his city. It was touching to see him there, eating with us, simply human.

As a photographer, I was in heaven. The dim lights, the reflections on the river, the laughter — everything begged to be captured. And even though it was late at night and I had to balance my love for photography with being there for my boys, we made it work. In that short hour, we created not just beautiful shots, but memories that will stay with us for a long time. And now I could share the story with you.

What do you think — would you enjoy a candlelight supper by the riverbank? Do you have anything like this where you come from?

So — thank you, City of Budapest, for this wonderful experience. 💛

¹ Hyacinth Bucket is a fictional character from the classic British sitcom Keeping Up Appearances, famous for her obsession with social status and “candlelight suppers.” IMDb →