Forest Green, Brilliant White, and Rich Chestnut Brown: A Springtime Adventure in Hollókő, Hungary
The famous traditional sprinkling.
Photo credit: Tito Slack Photography
Forest Green, Brilliant White, and Rich Chestnut Brown: A Springtime Adventure in Hollókő, Hungary
The palette of a relaxing and fun Easter weekend, well worth sharing!
Northern Hungary’s Nógrád County is home to the beautifully preserved Old Village of Hollókő, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and popular Easter destination where I recently spent a wonderful Easter weekend. Why is it such an ideal destination for travelers, families, and photographers alike — and why visit during Easter in Hungary? Let me take you on a journey through the vibes, memorable moments, and practical details like prices and must-see spots. For a quick summary, jump to the end — but for the full experience, read on! :)
Arriving to the Area
When my friend suggested a visit to Hollókő Easter Festival for Easter, I was hesitant at first. We’re talking about a UNESCO World Heritage site — a traditional Hungarian village frozen in time, with architecture and culture dating back to the 1800s, built by the Palóc settlers. The restoration efforts after the war preserved the village’s charm perfectly, but I wondered if the experience might feel too staged or touristy. Happily, I was pleasantly surprised.
The drive from Budapest took about 1.5 hours, with the last 10 minutes winding through rolling emerald hills. Upon arrival, local security greeted us warmly and guided us to a convenient parking spot on a nearby hilltop. The organization was impressive. Stepping out of the car, the quiet beauty of the place hit me immediately: bright white walls gleaming in the sunlight, chestnut-brown roofs crowning traditional Palóc cottages, and gentle hills stretching into the distance. It was about a 15-minute walk down to the historic old village of Hollókő — the heart of the festival — and the most authentic traditional Hungarian village.
Hollókő Village and Easter Festivities
At the village entrance, a big stage was alive with traditional Palóc folk dance, performed by local groups. The swirling skirts and lively rhythm, accompanied by cheerful live music, pulled us in — we happily watched for nearly an hour. The dancers’ enthusiasm was infectious!
Walking through Hollókő on any day is beautiful, but the Easter Festival brings extra magic to this traditional Hungarian village. The houses, painted brilliant white and adorned with carved timber details featuring tulips and flowers, felt welcoming and lived-in. The scale is intimate — cozy one-story homes with low fences invite you to imagine popping into a neighbor’s garden for a chat. The locals match this friendly vibe perfectly — warm, open, and genuinely welcoming.
The shops and boutiques were open throughout the village, many set up inside actual living rooms, adding a homey feel. We discovered exquisite handcrafted decorations, wooden toys, woven baskets, and other charming items — all featuring unique Palóc motifs. These aren’t mass-produced souvenirs but lovingly made pieces, rich in local heritage. My son even suggested we move to Hollókő!
One of my favorite moments was meeting a sweet elderly lady in her garden, selling hand-knitted goods. Dressed traditionally in black layered skirts and a neat scarf, she looked like she stepped out of a Hungarian folk tale. She was kind, humble, and deeply authentic — a reminder that the village’s motto, ‘Az élő falu’ (The Living Village), is no empty phrase. When a foreign visitor tried to buy something and struggled with the language, I happily translated — a small exchange that became a cherished memory of genuine human connection.
Though moderately crowded during the Hollókő Easter Festival, the streets were easy to navigate, even for families with strollers. The atmosphere remained relaxed and joyful.
Easter Traditions: Watering of the Girls and Egg Painting
One of the most memorable Hungarian Easter traditions here is the “watering of the girls” — young men sprinkle water on women, originally young and unmarried, on Easter Monday. It might sound a bit odd today, and there’s a playful countertradition where women get to retaliate later. While some aspects feel outdated from a modern viewpoint, the tradition endures as a lighthearted, family-friendly ritual. My children especially loved that mom got splashed!
Egg painting is another essential part of Hungarian Easter and springtime folk customs. Traditionally, girls would decorate eggs to gift to boys in return for being watered — a form of courting. At the festival, artisans demonstrated the delicate craft of painting intricate folk designs on fragile goose and chicken eggs. We even tried it ourselves, and my son was thrilled to paint a large goose egg with guidance from an artist.
Accommodation and Evening Relaxation
We spent Easter Monday wandering the village, enjoying the food, playground, and nature trails. Finding accommodation on short notice was tricky due to Easter’s popularity, but we stayed in a simple house with a spacious garden just 3.5 km away in Felsőtold. It was basic but comfortable, with plenty of space for the kids to run and us to unwind — a perfect end to a busy day.
Exploring the Castle
The next morning, with the festival crowds gone, we returned for a quieter experience. Hollókő’s small castle, a short walk from the village, was a highlight. Affordable entry led us to fascinating medieval rooms, narrow staircases, and stunning hilltop views. The castle’s history panels sparked fun conversations with the children, and they especially loved discovering the medieval toilet — a wooden seat opening two floors down! We also flew a drone around the grounds, adding a modern twist to our visit.
Who Should Visit Hollókő?
Hollókő is perfect for families with children of all ages. The village is a little hilly but easy to navigate with strollers. Locals are supportive and welcoming, making it easy to find spots for feeding or diaper changes. Young kids will love the traditional wooden playground and the Easter water-splashing fun, while older children and teens can explore the forest trails and castle history.
Photo Opportunities
Photographers, prepare to be delighted! Rolling green hills, bright white houses with dark timber, intricate wood carvings, and lively festival portraits in colorful traditional dress make Hollókő a goldmine of visual charm. The castle’s panoramic views and atmospheric interiors add to the rich tapestry of photo possibilities.
Quick Summary & Practical Info
Money Matters:
Village Entrance: Free on regular days; 6,500 HUF per adult on Easter Monday
Parking: Free
Festival Food: About 6,500 HUF per portion (pricey by Hungarian standards)
Local Restaurants: Main courses average 4,000 HUF (better value)
Accommodation: Around 10,000 HUF per person per night nearby
Castle Entry: 3,000 HUF plus 1,500 HUF for parking
Drinks & Coffee: Affordable and excellent quality, expect queues during busy times
Arriving & Parking:
1.5-hour scenic drive from Budapest
Well-organized parking on a nearby hill
Village & Festival Highlights:
Authentic Palóc folk dance and live music
Boutiques in cozy homes with handmade, unique goods
Manageable crowds and stroller-friendly streets
Easter Traditions:
Playful “watering of the girls” with water buckets
Artistic egg painting workshops and exhibits
Accommodation:
Book ahead for Easter; nearby villages offer good options
Simple countryside homes with gardens perfect for families
Castle Visit:
Breathtaking views, medieval curiosities, kid-friendly history
Post-festival calm for intimate exploration
Who It’s For:
Families with children of all ages, including babies
History buffs and cultural travelers
Photographers seeking authentic folk scenes and landscapes
Hollókő is a rare gem where every family member finds something to love — from the dances and crafts to the peaceful nature and castle adventures. For an authentic slice of Hungary’s living heritage and a memorable Easter experience, Hollókő is a must-visit destination.
